Dinner with Jean-Emmanuel Bonnaire

Join us for dinner on July 11th with Jean-Emmanuel Bonnaire (pictured), the owner of two excellent grower champagne houses – Bonnaire and Paul Clouet.

Bonnaire Jean Emmanuel ChampagneAs a special treat for our clients, Jean-Emmanuel will bring a few mature bottles from the family’s personal collection dating from 1982 and 1996. Both were excellent vintages in Champagne.

Bonnaire is based in the Grand Cru village of Cramant, renowned as one of the top terroirs for Chardonnay. And Paul Clouet is located in Bouzy, another Grand Cru village and home to outstanding Pinot Noir.

We’re not the only fans of these houses.  Probably the most notable devotee is champagne expert Richard Juhlin, who introduced us personally to Bonnaire. He has scored some of their champagnes at 98/100 points – as high as legends like 1961 Krug, 1934 Pol Roger and 1959 Cristal.

My private cellar is full of bottles from Bonnaire.” Richard Juhlin

In all, Jean-Emmanuel will be presenting 7 champagnes for you to taste.

The Wines

NV Bonnaire Rose (90 points, Antonio Galloni)
NV Paul Clouet Grand Cru (92 points, Allen Meadows)
NV Bonnaire Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru (92 points, Allen Meadows)
2008 Paul Clouet Grand Cru (not yet rated)
2008 Bonnaire Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru (90-94 points, Richard Juhlin)
1982 Bonnaire Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru (95 points, Richard Juhlin)
1996 Paul Clouet Grand Cru (93 points, Richard Juhlin)

Event Details

Tuesday 11th July
6.30pm – Aperitif
7-9.30pm – Dinner
The Devonshire Club
4-5 Devonshire Square, London EC2M 4YD

Prices are £130 for a single ticket, £120 each for multiple tickets. Your ticket includes seven champagnes, a three-course dinner designed to complement the wines, and £20 off any purchase of wines on the night.

Order your tickets by email to sales@closcru.com, or message us via the website.

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Think Pink

Well done to all who managed to stick to your dry January resolutions. Only one of our team at Clos & Cru attempted it this year, and she very nearly made it. (Charlie, your willpower is awe inspiring for having ‘slipped’ on merely one occasion!)

As February rolls around (and Valentine’s Day nears), our own thoughts are rolling around to rose champagne, as they do every year at this time. Honestly, what’s not to like? Flavours range from the merest hint of elegant raspberry to pastry and sweet spice. Not to mention the gorgeous range of colours – pale salmon to deepest rose.

But how do winemakers achieve that pink colour?

There are 2 main ways.

Assemblage

A.k.a. Blending. By far the most widely used method in Champagne. The winemaker produces a ‘blanc’ champagne in the normal way. Then, before the second fermentation in bottle, they blend in a portion of still red wine (anywhere from 5% to 20%) until they achieve the right colour and flavour profile.

The trick here is getting a still red wine of high quality. And in enough quantity. The Champagne is a northerly region, and the red grape varietals – Pinot Noir and Meunier – don’t always ripen to perfection. They’re also more prone to rot in humid weather than Chardonnay, the region’s white grape.

Pinot Grapes Champagne Roederer

Healthy Pinot grapes   © Louis Roederer

Charles Heidsieck’s non-vintage Rose Reserve – winner of a Gold medal at the Sommelier Wine Awards for 2016 – is a great place to start for anyone wanting to try an assemblage rose champagne.

Saignee

A.k.a. Bleeding. In this method, the winemaker allows the skins from the red grapes to macerate with the juice for a short period before pressing. Just long enough to “bleed” some pink colour into the juice from the skins, but not so long as to make a red wine. Once the saignee is complete, the winemaker makes the champagne as normal.

The challenge is having the knowledge and experience to judge exactly how long to bleed the colour before the wine is even made. Contact with skins doesn’t just bring colour, it brings other aromas, flavours and textures. Too little contact, and the house style might not be achieved. A fraction too long, and vegetal or bitter notes could creep into the finished champagne.

Cristal Rose, the prestige vintage cuvee from Louis Roederer, is made with this method, and is a favourite of top champagne critic Richard Juhlin. The 1979 vintage still features on his list of all-time favourite champagnes ever tasted – at 99 pts out of 100.

The “Seven Samurai” from Selosse

By Martyn Zemavicius

Having received an invitation from my dear friend Andrius to attend a blind champagne tasting called “the Seven Samurai”, I immediately told him I’d be there. Not just because every degustation Andrius organises is magnificent. Mainly because of the fun theme for the tasting.

His grand idea? To serve seven different champagnes from the house of Jacques Selosse, each representing a character from Akira Kurosawa’s legendary sword-fighting movie, The Seven Samurai. Moreover, each champagne would be opened by sabrage.

For those who have never seen the film, it tells the story of a poor village that gets raided every year by a band of 40 ruthless bandits, who steal the villagers’ crops and kidnap their women.  The villagers decide the only way they can save themselves is to scrape together what little money they have to hire samurai. They manage to find seven samurai who will fight for their paltry reward.  These brave samurai must defy the odds to defend the village and fight an epic battle against the bandits.

The wines were served in flights of two, with some chapter titles to give us clues.  So as we listened to the dramatic soundtrack from the film, we got stuck into our first flight.

Chapter One – The Walled Field Ends Below the Hill

  • NV Jacques Selosse Mareuil sur Ay ‘Sous le Mont’
    First release of this cuvee, which is 100% Pinot Noir (from a solera begun in 2005). Disgorged 2012.

Heihachi Hayashida (林田平八) was the character chosen to represent wine 1. Recruited by Gorōbei, he is an amiable fighter, if less skilled than the others. His charm and wit maintain his comrades’ good cheer in the face of adversity.

As this samurai was less skilled, he symbolised the fact that the ‘Sous le Mont’ is made from Premier Cru fruit, whereas the other wines were Grand Cru. (The name ‘Sous le Mont’ can be translated into English as ‘below the hill’.)

  • NV Jacques Selosse Ambonnay ‘Le Bout du Clos’
    The first release of this cuvee (from solera beginning 2004).
    80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Disgorged 2011.

Kikuchiyo (菊千代) is a humorous character who claims to be a samurai, but has falsified his ancestry. Mercurial and temperamental, he identifies with the villagers and their plight. He reveals to the group that he is not a samurai, but a peasant. When the fight begins, he proves his worth.

Just as Kikuchiyo was different from the others (not being a real samurai), this champagne is different. It is a blend of grape varieties, whereas the others are single variety. Not many people know that Le Bout du Clos is not a blanc de noirs. Anselme Selosse adds 20 percent Chardonnay to the blend, because this lieu-dit is very small and some Chardonnay was historically grown there. (‘Le Bout du Clos’ translates as ‘the edge of the walled field’.)

Chapter Two – The Essence

  • Jacques Selosse Substance (base 2008)
    100% Chardonnay. Disgorged 2015.

Katsushirō Okamoto (四郎) is a young untested warrior. The son of a wealthy landowning samurai, he left home to become a wandering samurai against his family’s wishes. After witnessing Kambei rescue a child who was taken hostage, Katsushirō vows to be Kambei’s disciple.

  • Jacques Selosse Substance (base 2005)
    100% Chardonnay. Disgorged 2012.

Gorōbei Katayama (片山五郎兵) is a skilled archer recruited by Kambei. He acts as the second-in-command, and helps craft the master plan for the village’s defense.

These characters represent Substance because they are both men of character at, with Katsushiro (the younger of the two) represented by the younger wine, and Gorobei the older.

Chapter Three – Origins

  • Jacques Selosse Extra Brut
    100% Chardonnay, an assemblage of 1992, 1991 and 1990 from Avize, Cramant and Mesnil. Disgorged 1999.

Shichirōji (七郎次) is an old friend of Kambei and his former lieutenant. Kambei meets Shichirōji by chance in the town and he resumes this role.

  • Jacques Selosse Origine
    100% Chardonnay (from solera 1986-92).
    Disgorged in 1999.

Kambei Shimada (田勘兵) is a ronin (a masterless samurai) and the leader of the group. The first to be recruited by the villagers, he is a wise but war-weary soldier.

These two characters both symbolise origins.  Shichiroji and Kambei have a relationship that begins years ago.  The Selosse Extra Brut is made from an assemblage going back in time, and the Origine is the predecessor wine to the Substance.

Chapter Four – Skill

  • Selosse 1998
    100% Chardonnay. One of the two finest vintages Selosse has produced.

Kyūzō () He initially declines an offer by Kambei to join the group, but he changes his mind. A serious, stone-faced samurai, of whom Katsushirō is in awe.

Because of his supreme skill as a swordsman, his character was chosen to represent the 1998 Selosse, which is one of the two best vintages Selosse ever produced. (The other is the 1986, the vintage that earned Anselme Selosse the title of Winemaker of the Year in France.)

Chapter Five – Blue Blood

Just as we thought the tasting had finished, our other dear friend Andrej brought a decanter with red wine. And from the first smell it was very clear that this ‘blue blooded’ wine was imperial in quality. The nose alone was worthy of 100 points straight away. And it was poured from magnum, as befits an emperor of a wine.

  • 1959 Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion (from magnum)

The story of the Seven Samurai takes place in 1586. At that time, the Emperor of Japan was Emperor Ōgimachi (町天皇).  He reigned from 1557 to 1586. His personal name was Michihito (方仁).

Bordeaux Chateau Pavie 1959

The Emperor

Arigato Gozaimasu

This was a truly unique tasting of great creativity, with much thought and time taken to organise it.  

These wines confirmed to me yet again that Anselme Selosse is a genius. His champagnes are magnificent and as full of character as the samurais immortalised on film.

The 1959 Pavie was and is one of the top red Bordeaux from an outstanding vintage. In magnums especially, wines of this quality and structure can age gracefully for decades and could take pride of place on any imperial table.

I am bowing my head very low and saying arigato gozaimasu to Andrius and Andrej for my introduction to The Seven Samurai and The Emperor of Japan.

 

Champagne, Jacques Selosse, Grand Cru

The sabred bottles

Tasting with Dominique Demarville

By Margaret Elderfield

Ask any chef. The right seasoning is essential to creating a great dish.  And according to Dominique Demarville, the cellar master at Veuve Clicquot, winemakers need their own ‘seasoning’ to assemble great wines.

Dominique was in London last week for the launch of Veuve Clicquot’s 2008 Vintage. In between sharing the latest news from Champagne and presenting the wines, he explained his rationale for reintroducing oak into the vintage wine.

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne, Dominique Demarville

Dominique Demarville

For some time, he had been wanting to expand the range of vins clairs going into the vintage – to have more types of “seasoning” to use “like a chef”. When he is making the non-vintage, he can select from a broad array of reserve wines dating back years. Adding small doses of these complex, characterful wines can bring amazing complexity to the final blend. But to produce the vintage, he is limited to the raw materials from that year alone.

Reintroduction of oak

So starting in 2007, they purchased a range of oak foudres, large casks of 55-75hl in size, with capacity for temperature control. The oak is sourced from French forests in the Vosges, Alliers, Fontainebleau and the centre of France.

Being able to chose from tank-fermented and cask-fermented wines has given Dominique a wider palette of flavours and textures to choose from, with greater complexity in the final wine.

Dominique stressed that the use of oak is minimal (only around 5% of the 2008 vintage wine saw any oak, rising to around 12% for 2012), and he will only consider oak fermentation for the grapes “with the biggest shoulders”, i.e. fruit that can take well to oak without being dominated by it.  In practice, this includes the very ripest grapes, typically harvested early in the vintage and often from the older vines.

To illustrate his point, he poured us several vins clairs from 2015 – Chardonnay from Cramant, Meunier from Villedommange and Pinot Noir from Bouzy. For each village, we tasted tank- and cask-fermented wines side by side. In each case, the cask-fermented wines had subtle but recognisable touches from the oak – slightly more roundness and breadth in the middle palate, and a bit more aromatic complexity. Dominique also likes the greater fruit length from cask fermentation.

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne, vintage

He has no plans to introduce oak for the Grande Dame at the moment. According to Dominique, La Grande Dame is all about the pursuit of freshness and silkiness. He selects grapes with a very different fruit profile than the Vintage.  With the Vintage, he is aiming to achieve power and complexity, as well as freshness and silkiness.

Veuve Clicquot 2008 Vintage wines

The 2008 Vintage overall has given wines of crisp acidity with great delicacy of structure. Dominique believes it will be a superb vintage for ageing potential.

Weather-wise, the early season in 2008 was cool and rainy in the spring.  From flowering onwards there were good weather conditions, with hot days reaching 24-25C, and cool nights of less than 10C.  The harvest at Veuve Clicquot took place from 14th September to 10th October – a very long harvest due to the very favourable weather conditions, so they could pick at the best moment.  In bad years they will be forced to pick fairly early to avoid botrytis, but this was not the case in 2008.  On average, the grapes came in at 9.8 degrees of potential alcohol, 8.6 total acidity, with pH of 2.96.

Vintage Rose is a very important and growing category for Veuve Clicquot, accounting for 30% of all vintage sales (compared with 8-9% for non-vintage).  Dominique even has two full-time winemakers making only red wines. They share a winemaking facility dedicated to reds in the Cote des Bar with Moet.

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008 – from bottle
61% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay, 5% Meunier.
Nose: Fresh, with some development. Nutty, biscuity, white peach.
Palate: Lovely texture and mouthfeel. Apple, fruity, yeasty, creamy dairy. Saline minerality. A honeyed quality to the fruit. Complexity and intensity. Drinking well now, sufficiently open. 95 pts.

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008 – from magnum
Nose: Very closed in comparison. Apple, lemon, some yeasty notes, but less overt than bottle sample.
Palate: Fruity, some citrus fresh lemon and ripe grapefruit, some more tropical fruit notes, with hint of spice.  Seems too young, not open yet. 93 pts.

Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rose 2008 vintage – from bottle
61% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay, 5% Meunier. Contains 14% still red wine from Bouzy.
Medium salmon pink in colour.
Nose is fruity and autolytic, apple and light red fruits, some apricot. Nutty and bready also, opening to dairy.
Palate: Dominant portion of pinot noir immediately evident. Steely base note, cherries, lemon, apricot. Crisp, mineral with some creaminess. Balanced. Gentle bitterness on the back palate, typical of Bouzy reds.  One to have with food ideally. 93 pts.

Next Vintages and a Superb Cave Privee

Dominique confirmed that 2012 and 2015 will be the next Veuve Clicquot vintages.  He said that although they typically have enough quality grapes to produce more vintage wines, there are no plans to raise the current average of around 3 vintages per decade. This is because they want sufficient quantity of reserve wines to maintain the style of the non-vintage.

To finish, we were treated to a glass of Veuve Clicquot 1989 Cave Privee from jeroboam, disgorged in January 2014. This delicious wine is drinking perfectly now.  It was made by former cellar master Pierre Peters, who confided to Dominique that it was a personal favourite.

1989 Veuve Clicquot Cave Privee – from jeroboam
Disgorged January 2014.
Medium gold.
Mature honeyed nose, with smoky and coffee notes, bruised apple.
Palate beautifully complex and powerful. Honeyed and silky.  Apple peel with tangerine acidity. Finely textured with excellent length of fruit. Lovely bitter twist on the finish. Mature. Autolytic character strong but well integrated. 98 pts.

Veuve Clicquot 1989 Cave Privee with canapes

Thanks to Dominique for sharing so much of his time and his winemaking wisdom. And to all the team at Veuve Clicquot for the delicious Cave Privee and canapes!

The Art of Assemblage at Charles Heidsieck

By Martyn Zemavicius

Regular readers will know how much we at Clos & Cru love Maison Charles Heidsieck (see My Top 3 Estate Visits).

So I was excited to attend their recent masterclass in London focusing on the art of blending, known by the French term assemblage.  Held in a lovely light-filled room at the English National Opera, the class was presented by Stephen Leroux, executive director of Charles Heidsieck. Stephen comes from a long line of champenois, going back generations. (His great-grandfather – a champagne negociant in Aube – was an organiser in the Champagne Riots in the early 20th century.)

The Vins Clairs

The creation of champagne begins with the raw material known as vins clairs. These are still wines from the latest vintage made from single varieties and parcels. They can be very high in acid, as they contain no dosage and have not yet undergone their second fermentation and maturation in bottle. Stephen joked that cellar masters consider their vins clairs like children. They want to watch them grow and develop, and are always reluctant to part with them.

The mature vins clairs are called ‘reserve wines’. Adding them judiciously to a blend, the winemaker can add nuance and complexity, just as a chef uses herbs and spices to season a dish.  Some of the reserve wines available for blending would have been made by a previous cellar master from years ago, and there may be very little left.  To use up the last of a particularly rare reserve wine can be a bit of an emotional separation for the chef de cave.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve

Samples of Vins Clairs

We began the class by tasting single-cru vins clairs from the 2015 vintage.  The Chardonnay from Oger was very mineral, yet also fruit-driven.  The Meunier from Verneuil had a beautiful floral, rose petal quality, with notes of apricot.  

Then we tasted three different vins clairs from Pinot Noir.  The first sample, from Ambonnay, had an opulent raspberry earthy nose and an elegant grapefruity palate that could easily have been mistaken for Chardonnay. The second sample, from Ay, was powerfully fragrant, with a luscious red fruit juice character and some discernible tannin.  The final sample of Pinot Noir came from Verzy. Beneath its aromas of earthy dark fruit, it had a steely minerality.

Next we tasted a mature reserve wine, a 1996 Chardonnay from Cramant.  This was stunning for its length and its aromatic freshness, almost muscat-like but with grapefruit notes. It illustrated the complexity that can come with ageing a great vin clair in tank for a decade.

That was followed by our first blend of the day – the final blend vin clair of the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve.  The blend consisted of roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, with 60% from the 2015 vintage, and 40% reserve wines from 1996-2009.  The nose was stunning, with plum and floral aromatics.  And the complex flavours on the palate included grapefruit, plummy cherries, and an earthy minerality.

The Finished Champagnes

We ended the class by tasting finished champagnes from across the range (full tasting notes & scores below), including a vinotheque release of the 1985 Blanc des Millenaires that can only be described as heavenly.  

One bit of news we can share for fans of Maison Charles.  Stephen confirmed that the house is preparing to relaunch its vinotheque range of champagnes.  The relaunch is scheduled for late this year or early next year, with new packaging and branding. Coinciding with the launch will be a big auction of vinotheque champagne at Christie’s – an event that collectors will certainly want to look out for.

Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve NV (2008 base)
Roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier from the base year, with 20% reserve wines and 5% still red wine, of which 95% comes from Les Riceys. Disgorged in 2015.
On the nose elegant raspberry, floral violets and chocolate notes.
Palate is elegant, so delicious, powerful but with finesse at the same time. Long finish, amazing. 93 pts

Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV (2008 base)
Roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier from the base year, with 40% reserve wines. Disgorged 2014.
Nose: lemon tart, almonds, brioche, earthy chanterelle mushrooms.
Palate is amazingly complex, lemon tart, brioche, rich texture, long finish. 93+ pts

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Rose Millenaires

Charles Heidsieck Millesime 2005
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay.  11 village crus were used to make the final blend for 2005 (including Mailly and Ambonnay for Pinot Noir; and Oger, Avize, Vertus and Cramant for Chardonnay).
Nose: Salty caramel, bruised apple, freshly cut field mushrooms and lemon tart.
Palate has a pleasant and creamy texture, ripe sicilian lemons. Something a touch artificial, but in a nice way. 90 pts

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995
100% Chardonnay from 4 Grand Cru villages (Avize, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant) and 1 Premier Cru (Vertus).  Disgorged 2014
Complex nose with honey, mineral notes, gunpowder, apricots, orange blossom, jasmine, apple, pear. Mind-blowing nose!
Palate is pure, elegant, fruity, honey, nutty with almonds. So long. 95+ pts

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1985 (Vinotheque)
Disgorged in late 1998 or early 1999 for the millennium. The 1985 vintage had a terrible winter, with temperatures of -15C for a month. 20% of the vines were killed, leading to a very small harvest.
Nose: Incredible depth of aromas, with honey, nuts, brioche, forest mushrooms, rye bread with sunflower seeds.
Creamy texture on the palate, and very complex: walnuts, sultanas, dry apples and amazingly long. Champagne sent from heaven! 98 pts

Charles Heidsieck Champagne Stephen Leroux

Martyn with Stephen Leroux

Our Thanks

Thanks again to Stephen and his team for liberating those samples of vin clair from the cellar! A most informative tasting. Only a generous soul could have shared that heavenly Blanc des Millenaires 1985.

Tasting with the Sparkling Winemaker of the Year

By Martyn Zemavicius & Margaret Elderfield
Champagne Henriot Laurent Fresnet

Laurent Fresnet, Henriot chef de cave

Henriot has always been one of our favourite Champagne houses.  Their devotion to quality is paramount and it shines through in their wines, which have an elegant freshness, combined with depth of fruit and beautiful structure.  

Last Friday, we had the good fortune to taste across the Henriot range with their chef de cave, Laurent Fresnet.  Laurent was recently named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year for 2016 in the International Wine Challenge – the winemakers’ equivalent of winning an Oscar.

The wines were presented in different formats – including bottles, magnums and jeroboams – always an enlightening comparative experience.

We began with the Brut Souverain NV, perhaps Henriot’s most well-known cuvee, which we tasted first in bottle then in jeroboam. The Souverain is comprised of around half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir, with just a touch of Meunier (less than 5%) in the blend.  The reserve wines (around 20%) always include a proportion of the previous year’s base wine, but can also include Grand Cru wine that goes into their vintage Cuvee des Enchanteleurs. Depending on the base year, it can even include a portion of the perpetual blend used in their Cuve 38. Aged for a minimum of 3 years on the lees, with a dosage of around 8-9 gr/L.

The 75cl bottle of Souverain, with the base wine from the 2011 vintage, exhibited a lovely length of fruit with some floral aromas and a touch of creaminess in the middle palate. But the Souverain in jeroboam, based on the 2000 vintage and disgorged only in 2013, had amazing opulence and power.  

Champagne Henriot Souverain Enchanteleurs

Good wines come in large and small packages

Next came the Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV, which recently won a Platinum medal in the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards.  The grapes for this wine come primarily from the Cote des Blancs, including the Grand Cru villages of Mesnil sur Oger, Avize and Chouilly. Aged for 3-5 years, with a dosage of around 7 gr/L.

The 75cl bottle of Blanc de Blancs came from the 2008 base year, and was disgorged in 2012.  It was a beautifully balanced champagne, with white peach, floral and honeyed apple notes.  In comparison, the BdB from jeroboam with the 2006 base was a more broad affair, and showed a mix of youthful and maturing characteristics, including notes of spice and toasted minerals.

Then we tasted two vintages of Henriot’s vintage champagne, the Cuvee des Enchanteleurs, for 1999 and 2000, both from magnum.  The Enchanteleurs contains only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, exclusively from Grand Cru villages. Interestingly, the 2000 vintage was kept in tank for an extended period prior to bottling, to safeguard the fresher, youthful characteristics as long as possible prior to maturation in bottle.  The Enchanteleurs is matured for a minimum of 12 years before release.  It is not always released in magnum, but when it is they limit production to 1,000-2,000 magnums only.

The 2000 Enchanteleurs from magnum displayed lovely round characteristics, including baked apple and stone fruits, and a toasted nutty character. The 1999 – called “Eclipse” because the Champagne region experienced a total solar eclipse in August of that year – was amazingly well-balanced between opulence and freshness, with incredible length of fruit. Both wines had lovely autolytic flavours of baked patisserie.

We finished with the Cuve 38 from magnum. Readers of our blog will know the great story behind this wine (see our earlier post 38 – The magic number at Champagne Henriot).  In 1990, Joseph Henriot had the foresight to begin a solera-style perpetual cuvee.  He set aside one tank, the Cuve 38, to which he added some of his best Grand Cru blanc de blancs.  Every year since they have drawn off 15-20% of wine from this tank, and replenished it with the best blanc de blancs from that year.  The Cuve 38 is now an incredibly complex blend, with the best of each year’s Grand Cru Chardonnay harvest.  It is released only in magnum (1,000 magnums per year), and aged for at least 5 years before release.

Tasting the Cuve 38 shows what can be achieved with great care, and with time, in winemaking. This is a blanc de blancs of great structure and complexity, with beautifully floral top notes and a mouthwatering saline mineral character on the finish.  It is a champagne of serious quality that would hold its own with many foods, even a post-prandial cheeseboard.

Our thanks again to Laurent and his team for their generosity in setting up this superb and educational tasting!  

Tasting notes for our favourite wines of the tasting are reproduced in full below.

Henriot Brut Souverain NV – in 3L
Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with less than 5% Meunier. Grapes from 25 crus, most of which are located in the Montagne de Reims and the Cotes des Blancs.  Base wine from the 2000 vintage. Kept on cork and disgorged in 2013.  Dosage 7-8 gr/L.
Complex nose, nutty and earthy. Opulent, rich, powerful and long on the palate. Wow!
92 pts

Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV – in bottle
100% Chardonnay, mainly from the Cote des Blancs. 2008 base vintage. Disgorged 2012.
Floral, white peach, honey and apple aromatics. So pleasant rich and balanced on the palate, with honeyed flavours. Super champagne. 91 pts

Henriot 1999 Cuvee des Enchanteleurs “Eclipse” – in magnum
50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir.  All fruit comes from 6 Grand Cru villages (Mailly Champagne, Verzy and Verzenay in the Montagne de Reims; and Mesnil sur Oger, Avize and Chouilly in the Cote des Blancs).  Only 1800 magnums produced. Disgorged in 2014. 6g/L dosage.
On the nose, rich and nutty, with herbal, baked apple and biscuity aromas.
Opulent, rich and nutty on the palate with balanced acidity. Very long finish, complex and stunning!  94 pts.

Henriot Cuve 38 – in magnum
Bottled in 2009.  Disgorged in 2014. Only 1000 magnums produced in 2009.  From a perpetual blend “solera” comprising vintages 1990-2007. 3.5 g/L dosage.
Incredible complexity on the nose.  Notes of iodine, orange blossom, lemon tart, brioche, croissant and Madagascar vanilla. Stunning palate, elegant and powerful at the same time, with finesse. Floral honey, salted caramel and nutty flavours. Long and complex. Still needs time. 95 pts

 

The Tasting Worth a Trip Around the World

By Martyn Zemavicius

1945 Mouton Rothschild, 1996 Montrachet Leflaive & More

Invitations to taste a wine as legendary as the 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild come perhaps once in a lifetime, if at all. So I was very lucky to be in the right place at the right time, to be invited to a vertical tasting of Mouton Rothschild that included the 1945.

To try this wine alone, a mad-about-fine-wine person like me would travel around the world. But when the host announced a couple of days before the tasting that — to make the tasting “more fun” — he would be including two of the greatest Le Montrachet producers, Leflaive and Lafon, side by side, it’s fair to say that I would have travelled to the moon.

Here are a few of the highlights from that amazing line-up.

1945 Mouton Montrachet Leflaive

NV Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (2008 base), Magnum
The tasting started with my beloved Charles Heidsieck. In this case the NV Brut Reserve, but the first I have tasted from magnum with the long-awaited 2008 base. It’s certainly great now, but it will live for 20+ years. 95 pts.
One-third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, with approximately 40% reserve wines.

2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc
Larrivet Haut-Brion is situated next to Haut Bailly. The domain has gone by a few names in the past couple of centuries.  It was originally named Chateau La Rivette, then Chateau Brion Larive (‘brion’ being the word for ‘gravel’ in the local dialect), then Haut-Brion Larive. After a 1949 lawsuit from Haut Brion, the property was forced to change its name. It produces delicious and well priced white wines, and the great 2009 vintage was no exception. 93 pts.
60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon. No malo.

2006 ‘Y’ Chateau d’Yquem
‘Y’, which is nowadays a dry white, comes from the incomparable sweet wine producer Chateau d’Yquem. It has been made off and on in small quantities ever since 1959. Only in the 1990s did it change to a crisp, dry style, and since 2004 it has been produced every year.  I rarely try this wine because of the relatively low production (less than 1,000 cases produced annually), but I like it very much because its flavour profile is so rare – like great Pessac with touch of Sauternes added to blend. 96 pts.
80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon.

2002 Meursault-Perrieres Lafon
Many consider Dominique Lafon to be the best white wine producer in the world, and I can see why. He is based in Meursault, and his mastery of the appellation showed in the bottle. This wine was magical and my favorite white wine of the tasting to drink now, because both Montrachets need more time. 95 pts.
Biodynamic production.  Around 70-80% new oak.

Les Montrachets

2008 Montrachet Lafon
1996 Montrachet Leflaive
Next came the moment to taste the greatest white wine appellation in the world, as interpreted by two of its greatest producers.

Both Montrachets were out of this world, just still too young. I slightly preferred the Leflaive, which was made Anne-Claude Leflaive herself (before she tragically passed away in 2015). The Lafon (97 pts) had more subtle elegance, while being extremely complex and long. But the Leflaive (98 pts) was nigh on perfect in every way. I fell in love with this magical wine. 2008 Montrachet Lafon – Biodynamic production. 100% new oak.
1996 Montrachet Leflaive – Biodynamic production. 100% new oak for 12 months, then 6 months in used oak.

The 1945 Mouton Rothschild

Next came the moment to meditate, utter a prayer, and prepare one’s body and soul to experience a wine worthy of Bacchus himself.

Whether or not you agree that 1945 was the greatest vintage for Bordeaux in the 20th century (and there are still wine lovers who argue for the 1961), it was certainly one of the smallest and most concentrated crops ever produced. A severe frost in May meant very low yields. Drought and high heat later in the growing season brought ripeness and concentration, as well as an early harvest, starting on the 13th of September.  Baron Philippe was back from the war in time for this harvest, and to celebrate the allied victory the wine was labelled with ‘V’ for l’Annee de la Victoire.

The particular bottle of 1945 Mouton that we tasted was special. It was purchased from one of the oldest and most respected Bordeaux merchants, who asked Mouton Rothschild to recondition the bottle in the early 1990s. The bottle was opened, tasted, recorked and a new capsule added at the chateau. This is ultra rare.

As always with super-hyped wines, the expectation before tasting is sky-high. And quite often the reality can be disappointing, falling short of your magical expectations. But even with my sky-high expectations, the 1945 still blew me away.

It was without doubt one of the most incredible wines I have tasted. Full of life and energy that belied its age. For me, it seemed like it had just reached its peak. But my friend Rytis, who tastes so much great wine, said it would still improve.

Complex and layered, ever changing and with endless length. And yes, as you can see from my tasting note, it was certainly 100 points with a big fat plus!

1945 Mouton Rothschild
Brick red core with a clear red rim.
Power, power, power! Dried cherry & cranberry, cocoa, cedar, cassis. Mind-blowing nose, tobacco, mint, mutton stew, smoked bacon. So complex you could write endless notes. Oh my god, tears are coming.
Fruit bomb on the palate, with power and elegance at the same time. Flavours of mushroom, cedar, tobacco, cocoa, rose petals, red berries. Concentration and length, so elegant and powerful at the same time.  100+ pts.

The Mouton Vertical

The remaining six wines in the Mouton vertical consisted of the following vintages – 1990, 1985, 1983, 1981, 1980 and 1970.

Although the 1980 was possibly a bit over the hill, and the 1981 was just a touch austere on the palate, the others ranged in quality from excellent to outstanding.

The 1990 displayed perfect typicity of vintage, with an elegant nose of crushed berries and liquorice, as well as mature tones of chocolate with gentle smokiness. It still had plenty of youthful intensity, with the ripe tannins just starting to melt. It will keep well for at least another two decades. 95+ pts.
Cabernet Sauvignon 81%, Cabernet Franc 10%, Merlot 9%.

The 1985 was also particularly seductive, with its incredible length and balance of rich fruits, integrated acidity and spice notes. Those of you lucky enough to have this in magnum would be richly rewarded if you decided to open one soon. 95 pts.
Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 12%, Cabernet Franc 10%, Petit Verdot 3%.

And the 1970 was outstanding. Amazingly intense, concentrated and still youthful for a 46-year-old wine, it had power and elegance in equal measure. Full of lovely cedar notes, crushed forest berries and spice, with a beautiful mineral backbone. It was absolutely delicious on the day, but equally it has a long life ahead. 97+ pts.
Exact percentages of blend not known.

Last but Not Least

1934 Chateau Lamothe, Sauternes
We finished the tasting with an 82-year-old Sauternes from Chateau Lamothe.  It was complex as only a mature Sauternes can be, with notes of beeswax, violets and herbs on the nose, with overripe apricots, dried citrus and spice on the palate.  But there was still plenty of youthful vibrancy, and it was a joy to taste. 95 pts.

A fitting end to an evening that I shall remember for the rest of my days.

I’d like to conclude by offering a huge thank you to the wonderful couple who hosted the tasting of these delicious treasures from their personal wine collection. Your generosity is unsurpassed!

 

My Top 3 Estate Visits

By Martyn Zemavicius

This article is the first in a series of ‘Top 3s’, marking the occasion of our 3rd Birthday at Clos & Cru.  Thanks to all of our clients, friends & suppliers for your support over these past three years.

Charles Heidsieck – Champagne

Twice I’ve been lucky enough to be invited on a tour of this estate — which is closed to the general public and is extremely difficult to get into. The property has something magical about it that you can’t anticipate as you approach from the street. On one side, there’s a not-particularly-nice block of flats, and on the other an old stone wall with tiny wooden doors. Only after you’ve walked through the doors do you know you’re in for something special, as you enter an oasis of beauty in the middle of Reims.

The crayeres at Charles Heidsieck – the chalk cellars that date back to Roman times – are more than beautiful spaces. They are a testament to human industry, dug out by hand centuries ago. My favourite was the chamber filled with old vintages, where you can’t contain the feeling that you’ve discovered a trove of treasures as you glance at the rows of old bottles.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Crayere

Crayere No. 9 at Charles Heidsieck

The main building – with glass all around – gives picturesque views out to the garden. Combine that view with the experience of tasting such magnificent champagnes as the 1981 Champagne Charlie cuvee, and you know you have arrived in a paradise. My last visit to the estate – hosted by general director Stephen Leroux – was especially wonderful. Not only did I get to taste one of the best champagnes ever, but I am proud to say that our group managed to nail all of the champagnes we were served in a blind tasting.

Pichon Lalande – Pauillac, Bordeaux

I’ve been to this estate several times, and twice enjoyed luncheon inside the Chateau. This is my favorite property to visit in Bordeaux, as the Chateau itself is equally beautiful outside and inside.  The view of the surrounding vineyards – including famous neighbours like Chateau Latour – is inspiring. And I loved discovering their museum-quality collection of glasses.

Bordeaux Pichon Lalande Pauillac

Chateau Pichon Lalande

Because it’s owned by the Rouzaud family, who also own my beloved Roederer champagne house, lunch usually starts with a glass of Cristal. On my last visit it was general manager Nicolas Glumineau who looked after us. He gave us a most charming welcome, and the 1996 Pichon Lalande was delicious.  

 

Remoissenet Pere & Fils – Burgundy

This domaine in the heart of Beaune is not open to the general public. It has a cellar dating back to the 14th century, with the largest collection of Burgundy wines from the 1960s and 1970s. The building above the cellars was originally built for the local police, complete with a jail cell for locking up offenders. So it’s completely different from any other negociant in Burgundy.

The main room – where I’ve been on the receiving end of several memorably delicious lunches – is full of old armor, shields and even a very old, but still operational, organ which we usually listen to when finishing a meal. And my dear friend Bernard Repolt who manages the domaine always welcomes us warmly, spoiling us with something very special and old from the cellar.

Conclusion

All of these three estates have a lot in common. The beautiful buildings, the cellars, the history, and the delicious wines. But what made my visits extra special were the exceedingly hospitable and experienced professionals who welcomed me. Thanks for the memories.

How to Bid in Our Online Charity Auction

Our online charity auction in support of the Central London Samaritans starts this Thursday 9th June.

Champagne 1966 Jacquart EnglandMagnumUp for auction is a Limited Edition magnum of Jacquart Brut Mosaique champagne, signed by 7 members of England’s 1966 World Cup winning team- Alan Ball, Gordon Banks, Bobby Charlton, George Cohen, Geoff Hurst, Martin Peters and Nobby Stiles.  

Tempted to experience a taste of history, and support a wonderful charity?  Here’s how to bid.

How to Bid – On Twitter

Step 1 – Follow us on Twitter @ClosCru

Step 2 – Submit your bid by sending a tweet to us @ClosCru and using the hashtag #EnglandMagnum.  All bids are in Pounds Sterling.

For example:

Sample bid Twitter auction

Step 3 – The Bidder who tweets the highest bid before 1pm on Thursday 16th June will be deemed to have won the auction, and will be deemed to be the Buyer at the bid price. Clos & Cru will confirm the successful bid and close of auction on the @ClosCru Twitter feed.

How to Bid – Via Email

Step 1. Send your highest bid in an email to sales@closcru.com with “England Magnum” in the subject line before 12noon on Thursday 16th June.

Step 2. Clos & Cru will Tweet your bid onto our Twitter feed for you, keeping your identity confidential.

Step 3.  If your bid is successful, you will be contacted by email to arrange payment and delivery.

Full terms & conditions can be found here.

#EnglandMagnum #WeListen #ThreeLions

 

Focus on our charity partner: the Central London Samaritans

Just over a week to go until the start of our online auction in support of the Central London Samaritans.

To inspire everyone to dig deep into their pockets, we wanted to tell you about the work this essential charity is doing to help people of all ages and backgrounds.

In 2014 alone, there were 6,122 registered deaths caused by suicide in the UK. And 17% of the UK population will experience suicidal thoughts at some time in their life.

Every year the 450 volunteers at Central London Samaritans take calls from around 100,000 people in emotional distress.  They also support over 12,000 people by SMS, and over 4,000 people face-to-face.

Donations from businesses and private individuals make up over half their operating budget.  In 2016/17 alone, they need to raise over £240,000. Without the generosity of the public, they simply could not operate.

Our colleague at Clos & Cru – Charlie Pemberton – has been a volunteer with ‘CL Sams’ since 2012.  Here she shares a bit about what her volunteer experience has meant to her.

“I joined Samaritans when I was considering graduate studies in genetic counselling.  Since the day I started training to become a fully fledged member of the phone room team, I soon realised what an incredible charity Central London Samaritans are.

Their main work is to support people who are suicidal, always giving them the space and time to work out what they want without the judgement of others.  And although we get many of these calls at CL Sams, the service helps people in so many other ways.

Loneliness is the biggest factor that stands out for most of us.  In a city of 12 million people, London can be an incredibly lonely place, and it wasn’t until listening to people who can spend days or even weeks without speaking to another person that I came to realise how important it is to hear another voice, asking about your day.

 My volunteering gives me a sense of grounding, at how my ‘bad day’ has really not been so bad after all.”

Full details of the auction, including how to bid, can be found here.